The Dacca weaves of East Bengal - famous for the figured, finely woven mulmul. The Daccai saree, consists of different coloured threads intricately woven, (with several needles used) on white unbleached cotton. The thread was a slightly greater count than the base fabric. The style is now practised in West Bengal by the craftsmen who had migrated here after the partition. The technique also developed in Uttar Pradesh, the style of textile known as Jamdani.
The Jamdani weaves of Uttar Pradesh
This style was introduced by the Nawabs of Oudh in the late 18th century. The textile was very fine and delicate, the process very complicated & intricate & hence the textile was very expensive. The style is however still practised. In the style where white thread is used to weave on white, i.e., self designs, the designs woven are hardly visible, except on closer scrutiny. The thread used to weave the patterns are of the same count as the base material. Gold and silver thread are also used to weave the patterns.
The Paithani weaves of Maharashtra
Zari thread is used for the warp & the coloured threads for the weft are interlocked, the result is similar to tapestry weave. Complicated patterns of birds such as swans, peacocks, parrots, floral designs are intricately & delicately woven.
Chanderi weaves of Madhya Pradesh
In this technique silk thread is used for warp and fine cotton thread for the weft, with a richly laid out zari border and pallav. Checks & floral patterns are also laid all over the body.
Maheshwar sarees of Madhya Pradesh
Similar to Chanderi style, the saree is either pure cottons or silk / cotton mix, with check patterns being the specialty.
Gadwal, Vanaparti, Nander, Venkatagiri sarees of Andhra Pradesh
Gadwal and Vanaparti are woven as thick cotton, checks being the popular pattern with silk and zari border and pallav. The Nander sarees are very finely woven cotton sarees with rich border and pallav with gold and silver threads. The Venkatagiri sarees are very finely woven cottons with motifs from nature such as animals, birds, flowers woven half with gold thread and half with cotton thread.
Ikat weaves of Andhra Pradesh
Pochampalli sarees are woven with the ikat patterns, where the yarn is pre dyed based on pattern before weaving.
Kancheepuram, Salem, Coimbatore, Pudukottai, Madurai & Shankeranarkoil are famous for cotton weaves with motifs & checks laid on the body . The border & pallav are worked with thread or zari weaves.
Karakal sarees from Kerala
These are plain unbleached woven cottons with zari border & pallav.
Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh) silk weaves - brocades
An extra weft of gold thread runs across the warp with the motifs picked up in silk thread and jewel like colours worked in the style of minakari in jewellery.
Another variety of gold brocade has warp and weft of gold thread with patterns worked in silk and gold thread. Normally the background material is woven in silver zari and the patterns in gold. This is known as Ganga-Yamuna, Ganga standing for the gold thread and Yamuna for the silver.
Yet another variety is the gold and silver lame tissues.
The pure silk brocades are very intricate with silk thread used for creating the patterns.
Baluchar weaves of West Bengal
These are plain woven fabric brocaded with untwisted silk thread developed in Murshidabad. The specialty is the large pallav, with a large pattern radiating from the centre. The body of the saree carries zari buttas. The designs from the miniature paintings are used for the pallav design. The weavers of Varanasi have excelled in creating textiles of this variety.
Tanchoi weaves of Gujarat
These textiles are based on satin weaving. The base is satin and the extra weft floats are merged into the fabric.
Paithani weaves used in pallavs of silk sarees of Maharashtra, Andhra Pradesh
The paithani technique, where the warp is zari thread with coloured thread for the weft & this technique is used in the pallav of the silk sarees.
Kancheepuram weaves of Tamil Nadu
The silk sarees are woven with fine silk with contrasting border & pallav woven with a variety of zari motifs such as rudraksham, malli moggu, gopuram, etc. There are other areas in Tamil Nadu that are famous for their silk weaves such as Dharmavaram, Arni. Tanjore is famous for the all over gold woven sarees used for temples.
Patola weaves are practised in various regions with slight variations based on local taste. In Patola weaving the warp and weft threads are tied and dyed before it is woven. The warp thread is first stretched on the loom and the design is marked on this. Areas are tied and dyed. The tie & dye process is done in various colours from lighter to darker colour shade. The weft threads are fixed on a prepared frame placed at an angle & the same process is carried out. The weft threads are thrown over the warp & woven using long bamboo needles to hold the design. Sometimes only the warp or weft is tie-dyed & then it is known as single patola.
The double Ikat technique is followed in Rajkot & Patan, Gujarat.
Andhra Pradesh is famous for the Pochampally sarees with the geometrical patterns, which are usually made with only the weft tie-dyed. Chirala in Andhra Pradesh is another centre famous for Patola weaving.
Orissa is famous for Vichitrapuri sarees. Here in addition to the patola technique, additionally have extra warp weaves of natural silk. Apart form the usual geometrical patterns, complicated temple designs are woven in the pallav.